Fan forced natural gas and propane stable heaters burn fuel in a heat exchanger to yield heat. Natural gas unit heaters are very tasteless in populated areas that have natural gas piped throughout neighborhoods. Propane unit heaters are typically used in rural areas where natural gas is not available.
Operating Principle
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When there is a need for heating, the fuel from your natural gas line or propane tank flows straight through a gas valve inside the unit heater. A spark or pilot flame ignites the fuel and a flame is produced inside a heat exchanger. When the heat exchanger reaches a pre-set temperature, a fan turns on which blows space air straight through the warm heat exchanger. The air entering the heat exchanger absorbs the heat from the heat exchanger, resulting in a warmer extraction air temperature. As the fuel is burned, by-products of combustion leave the unit heater straight through a vent pipe also called a chimney.
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Benefits of fan forced gas or propane unit heaters in garages or workshops:
oEfficient.
oPowerful, fast self contained heat producers. They don't rely on a centralized boiler to provide heat.
oLow clearance requirements on low profile units.
oMost units have adjustable louvers to help direct warm air where you need it most.
oDurable. All unit casings are treated for corrosion resistance and complete with a baked-on, high solids paint.
oHuge range of sizes and styles to match the heater to your heating load. If prime properly, you don't have to worry about under or over sizing.
oThe fan can run in the summer without heat to help circulate air.
oNatural gas units are all the time ready to run. You don't need to worry about replenishing your fuel supply.
Drawbacks of fan forced gas or propane unit heaters in garages or workshops:
oGas fired units wish more maintenance and aid then other types of heaters.
oBy-products of combustion wish special attention. If the heater is not vented properly, risky fumes can enter your stable or workshop.
oClearance requirements must be met. A flame is present. You must be sure combustible materials (fixed or airborne) stay away from the unit heater.
oDirty, dusty or corrosive atmospheres wish special attention.
oFan forced units move large volumes of air which can kick up dust in your stable or workshop.
Unit Configurations:
Gas and propane unit heaters for garages and workshops blow air horizontally into the space. Adjustable louvers allow for vertical adjustment of airflow. Most major manufacturers also offer horizontal louvers that allow for side-to-side adjustment of airflow. Gas and propane unit heaters for garages and workshops can be broken down into several categories based on the venting type and heat exchanger design:
Venting Types:
Good: Gravity Vented
Due to its low cost and ageement design, gravity vented propeller unit heaters are a good selection for some garages and workshops. The term gravity vented refers to a unit heater that vents naturally, without the aid of a fan. A gravity vented unit uses the air in the stable or workshop for combustion. The warm by-products of combustion rise out of the unit heater straight through a flue pipe to the outdoors. A gravity vented unit is the least costly style; however, you must be sure the following conditions exist:
1) Your stable or workshop can not be under a negative pressure. If your space is negative, the by-products of combustion will not vent properly and you will palpate nuisance tripping from a protection switch that senses a blocked flue vent. Negative pressures occur when air is being exhausted from a space without any source of make-up air. Gravity vented units can be very sensitive to pressure changes. Sometimes a bathroom exhaust fan turning on can be sufficient to trip off a unit. If you have a gravity vented unit that is experiencing nuisance trip outs, you may want to setup an aftermarket power venter that gets installed in the flue vent pipe to help push the by-products of combustion in the right direction.
2) specific vent pipe routing is required. Gravity vented units control on the principle that hot air rises. Vertical venting straight through the roof of your stable or workshop is preferred. Sidewall venting is more difficult. Venting straight through a roof can come to be more costly since you need to wholly weatherproof the hole in the roof. The manufacturer's detailed facility instructions must be followed closely.
3) Since the air inside the heated space is being used for combustion, it is important that the atmosphere is clean. If you are comfortable lighting a match in your stable or workshop, then you should feel comfortable about running a gravity vented unit in your space. If there are any combustible dusts (woodworking shops) or fumes in your stable or workshop, select a separated combustion fabricate which is explained below.
Better: Power VentedA power vented unit is very similar to a gravity vented unit with the increasing of an integral flue vent booster fan. On a call for heat, the booster fan turns on to ensure the by-products of combustion will be vented properly. Power vented units are the most favorite type of gas and propane unit heater for garages and workshops. The booster fan allows for greater flexibility with flue pipe routing. Horizontal venting is very easy. In a stable or workshop, most venting is done straight through a sidewall to avoid precious roof modifications. Many of the major manufacturers are phasing out gravity vented units and are replacing them with power vented units as their entry level product.
Best: Separated CombustionSeparated combustion units are rapidly gaining in popularity. While former gravity and power vented units utilize space air for combustion, separated combustion units are sealed from the space. Separated combustion units for garages and workshops have 2 flue vent pipes. 1 flue vent pipe draws in air from the outdoors and 1 flue vent pipe exhausts the by-products of combustion back outside. This sealed combustion fabricate eliminates you concerns about burning the air in your space. Separated combustion units are a must in your woodworking shop where fine dusts can ignite with an open flame. Separated combustion units are ordinarily slightly more effective since they do not use the heated air in your space for combustion.
The only drawback to a separated combustion unit in your stable or workshop is the 2nd vent pipe. A 2nd vent pipe requires a 2nd hole in your wall or roof. Most manufacturers offer concentric vent kits that allow the 2 vent pipes to join at a galvanized metal box on the interior of your stable or workshop. The box combines the 2 vent pipes on 1 end and diverts them into a pipe within a pipe on the extraction end. This allows you to only lanch your wall or roof once. This also can make your unit more effective as the warm flue exhaust warms the cold face intake air.
Heat Exchanger Designs:
Traditional natural gas and propane stable and workshop heaters are tall and narrow. Most manufacturers are transitioning towards the newer tubular heat exchanger design. Tubular heat exchanges are more flexible and resist cracking over time. This fabricate also allows the unit to be wider and shorter which is indispensable for most garages and workshops that do not have ample overhead clearance.
Standard natural gas and propane stable and workshop heaters come with aluminized steel heat exchangers. Aluminized steel is more then sufficient for typical stable and workshop installations. The life expectancy for a natural gas or propane unit heater in a clean environment is 20+ years. If your application involves high humidity levels or mildly corrosive atmospheres, your natural gas or propane stable heater will last a lot longer if you upgrade to a stainless steel heat exchanger.
Options and Accessories:
Natural gas and propane stable and workshop heaters have several options and accessories to help meet your specific requirements. High Cfm blowers, 2 stage units, wall mounted thermostats, air deflectors and vent caps are very tasteless accessories used in garages and workshops. If you're not sure what to order, call us and we will recommend a unit to meet your specific needs.
Installation Overview:
1) suspend the unit heater using threaded rods or angle iron. Some of the low profile units include angle iron for mounting your unit directly to the ceiling.
2) setup natural gas or propane piping.
3) setup vent pipe.
4) Wire a low voltage wall thermostat to the heaters final strip.
5) Wire the high voltage power required to control the heater. This is ordinarily 120 volt power in garages and workshops.
Commonly Asked Questions:
1) How do I imagine the heating load for my stable or workshop?
Answer: There are many free heat load calculator tools available on the internet. Do Not fall for equipment that is advertised as "will heat up to 400 quadrate feet". Heating a 400 quadrate foot insulated stable in Florida is a lot different then heating a 400 quadrate foot un-insulated metal stable in Maine. 1 heater can not magically aid both 400 quadrate foot spaces. You do not want to undersize, and you do not want to oversize.
2) How do I control my natural gas or propane unit heater in my stable or workshop?
Answer: A wall mounted 24 volt thermostat is required. When there is a call for heat, the thermostat sends a signal to the natural gas or propane heater to turn on. Upgraded thermostats include a "fan" switch which allows you to control the fan with no heat in the summer.
3) How do I rule how much heat a natural gas or propane unit heater will generate?
Answer: Natural gas and propane unit heaters for garages and workshops are listed by their fuel inputs. For example, a 100,000 Btuh unit will consume 100,000 Btu's of fuel per hour. The actual heating production depends on the unit's efficiency rating. If the unit is 80% efficient, the actual heat production will be 80,000 Btu's per hour. Do not pick a heater based on the nominal size. Many citizen think this is the actual heat generated by the unit. They end up with a unit that is undersized.
4) What is the best location in my stable or workshop to setup my natural gas or propane unit heater?
Answer: The natural gas or propane unit heater in your stable or workshop should be placed in the coldest area, and it should be angled slightly so it blankets warm air over the coldest wall.
5) What is the best location to setup a wall mounted thermostat in my stable or workshop?
Answer: The thermostat should be mounted in a location that represents a good midpoint temperature in your stable or workshop. If it is placed in a cold spot, it will falsely run the unit heater more then it should. If it is placed in an area that receives direct sunlight, it will falsely run the unit heater less then it should. A well insulated interior wall is the best spot for the thermostat.
6) I have a natural gas unit heater that is 30 years old and in exquisite condition. How do I change this to propane?
Answer: Most manufacturers will only yield parts for equipment that is 20 years old. After 20 years, it is assumed the unit will be replaced with newer, more effective technology. In some situations, you may be able to palpate the builder of the gas valve directly for an aftermarket conversion kit.
7) How can I collate the cost to control natural gas, propane, oil and electric unit heaters?
Answer: There are manyh energy cost calculators available on the web. Pull out your latest utility bill and use this data to run an analysis.
8) What is included in a natural gas to propane conversion kit?
Answer: different fuel types control at different flow rates and pressures. The springs and orifices inside the gas valve needs to modified to match the fuel type. On some equipment, the igniter also requires an upgrade.
9) How do I rule if a separated combustion natural gas or propane stable or workshop heater is required?
Answer: If you're not comfortable lighting a match in your space, then you need a separated combustion unit so that there is no open flame being exposed to the heated space.
10) How do I vent my natural gas or propane stable or workshop heater?
Answer: You must considered read the facility instructions for your specific heater. Manufacturers do a good job outlining tasteless practices. Local codes may dictate venting requirements and override the manufacturer's recommendations. It is not a good idea to buy your vent pipe in a "kit". There are several types of vent pipe, and the cheap kits that are designed to fit all installations don't all the time form a exquisite seal. A kit that offers "flexibility" means there are a lot of expandable pieces and joints that need sealing. The fewer joints you have, the safer your system will be. Hang your heater in the best inherent spot for comfortable heating. Draw a sketch of the venting required and bring it to you local plumbing or home goods store. They will know your local codes, and they will take the pieces in the longest lengths available. This saves a lot of extra joints that can be very risky if they are not sealed properly.
choosing the excellent Natural Gas Or Propane Unit Heater For Your carport Or Workshop
1 comments:
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